Originally Posted By: BeerandFuel


With all the new firepower I get out of my egrip comes it's one real downside. The A5 eats ratchets like candy at 15 - 18 bps. I replace my ratchet pretty regular so I've only had it fail in the field once. And when it fails your done. Not even manually feeding will work. What I'm going to try and do here is show step by step how I replace my ratchet.

First I remove the bottom plate from the cyclone to confirm that infact it is broken. Typically the tooth is completely worn or broken off that drives the feeder axle.



Next I remove the top feeder screw and washer.



Next I remove the upper sprocket.



And then the lower sprocket.



Next I lift out the feeder cylinder assembly.



Pull the cylinder piston free.



Lift the feeder axle free.



Next I remove the short rachet pin

Originally Posted By: BeerandFuel

I remove the ratchet spring and spring guide.



Moving on to remove the long ratchet pin. Notice that it is wider at the bottom where the feeder piston connects.



Arial view of the dissassembled cyclone. Notice that the new ratchet is made of a different matierial.



First I insert the ratchet spring and spring guide.



Next I insert the short ratchet pin.



I carefully press it back into place with my multi-tool.



I insert the long pin part of the way back in, making mating up the ratchet piston easier. Remember to have the thicker end of the long ratchet pin go in first.



I carefully press it back into place with my multi-tool.

Originally Posted By: BeerandFuel


Remember to insert the feeder axle in the right way.



Next I reinsert the cylinder piston. It's a good idea to use a little java oil on the piston cup seal.



I set the whole assembly back in the cyclone body and put the feeder ratchet spring back in place. Its pretty straight forward as it only goes in one way.



Ater oiling the axle with java and making sure the feeder housing nut is in place <- something I forget just about everytime. Heh. I put the feeder bottom plate in and screw in on. Remember not to over tighten the screws as they will come up through the holes in the bottom of the inside and break balls.



Next I reinstall the lower sprocket.



Then the the upper sprocket.



Then replace the feeder screw and washer. Done.



Normally this is where I realize I forgot the feeder housing nut and have to take the bottom plate off again.

thanks for the demo

I'll definitly use this as a guide when i replace my cyclone internals. thanks man

Excellent walkthrough...I bet it will come in handy in the future!!!

thanks for the walkthrough, i used it the first time i took apart my cyclone.

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E8400 OCed to 4.2 Air--8800GT SLi--Dual boot Ubuntu and XP
X-7~X36 stock-J&J 12"~~A-5~OPSGEAR g36 stock~UMP body kit~.45 magazine

Formerly tarheelsfanforever

great visuals , a have the following situation & question, the tooth as you refer to in my case is not completely broken i can still actuate it for single shoots,it happened yesterday in the middle of a firefight but my r/t still work but it does not feed the balls will replacing this part will get rid of my problem

Nice walkthrough...the only thing you might want to consider is to use white lithium grease on the moving parts where the ratchet and rod meet...this will reduce the friction and maybe even improve the life of your parts...just some food for thought!!!

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X7 w/Egrip/ OPSGEAR 12" G36 Barrel/ 10" Stiffi Barrel(backup)/Commando Air-Thru Stock/UTG Tri-Rail Mount with NcStar Red-Dot Scope/UTG Laser/Stock Mag with Magpul/M16 Short Mag/G&P Folding Vertical Grip/Ladder Rail Covers/JCS Jet Click Shaft and Ratchet/TechT Lightening Rod/TechT QEPH/Polished Internals

Great walkthrough.....my only question is why not just replace it with one of the aluminum kits? Why keep using the plastic rachet? Otherwise nice pics and step by step instructions...