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Old 07-12-2010, 08:25 AM
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Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

Hi Guys. Decided to put all the info on the site so far in regards to the X7 Phenom into a nice compilation. Will update this as new things are learned.

For simplification, I will be referring to the X7 Classic as the X7C and the X7 Phenom, as the X7P.

The essentials


Phenom (Electro)

Barrel thread: A5/X7
Operating pressure: 350 psi (2413 kPa)
Type: Open bolt blow forward spool valve system
Caliber: .68
Feed rate: 15 balls per second (bps)
Fire rate: 15 balls per second (bps)
Drive gas: Carbon Dioxide (CO2), Nitrogen (N2), Air
Trigger: Mechanical and/or electrical
Length: 19.75" (50.16 cm)
Weight: 3.92 lbs (1.78 kg)
Barrel length: 9.5" (24.13 cm)
Effective Range: 150 ft. (45.7 m)
Hopper Capacity: 200 Balls

Phenom (Mechanical)

Barrel thread: A5/X7
Operating pressure: 350 psi (2413 kPa)
Type: Open bolt blow forward spool valve system
Caliber: .68
Feed rate: 15 balls per second (bps)
Fire rate: 8 balls per second (bps)
Drive gas: Carbon Dioxide (CO2), Nitrogen (N2), Air
Trigger: Mechanical (Can be upgraded to an Electro)
Length: 19.75" (50.16 cm)
Weight: 3.92 lbs (1.78 kg)
Barrel length: 9.5" (24.13 cm)
Effective Range: 150 ft. (45.7 m)
Hopper Capacity: 200 Balls

Parts Compatibility and Mods

The question of compatibility has arisen many a time. From barrels to stocks, there are a lot of uncertainty. So, the clarification.

Stocks

All X7C stocks will fit the X7P.

However, the commando Air-Thru stock (as well as the RAP4 Flexi Air system) requires a special adapter. The adaptor will ship with new “Phenom” air thru stocks, but for older ones, you will need to purchase the adapter.

First brought to the OG by H2O: http://www.x7og.net/phenom/22269-air-thru-stock.html

YouTube - X7 Phenom Air Thru Stock Install.mpg - Installing the air-thru adapter


And, you can find one here: X7 Phenom Air Thru Adapter Kit or here: Paintball - Cheap Paintball Guns, Gear and Paintball Equipment (I have not been able to find them anywhere else yet)



Front Shrouds

The shrouds are a sticky subject. Some work fine, other require a bit of creativeness to get them to fit perfectly.

Any shroud, that fits over the X7’s body, will need to be widened slightly, as the Phenom is a few millimeter fatter than the X7C. Some, such as the Ump shroud (seen bellow) that fit back over the body, will need a little further modeling, to fit over the TIPPMANN name that is on the side of the X7P, and cut out over the mag-well.



Shrouds, such as the Metadyne Ris rails that replace the barrel adapter rather than utilizing the pins on the X7’s body, will work without trouble.

Mag's

This is one of the Phenom's downfalls, are the smaller magwells, intended for the 9mm or .45 mags. But, Tippmann has now (September 2010) released the larger mags that cover the small magwell. Their downfall is the integrated trigger guard.
Killjoy Industries has developed a all metal 9mm mag with visible bullet casings, available here: Custom Paintball Products: A-5/X7 triggers, stocks, accessories
Scenario Arms has also developed a mag in the 5.56 size, available here: Scenario Arms Tippmann X7 Phenom 5.56mm Magazine

Currently however, there are not a lot of mag options available:

The Tippmann mag's (pictures excluding the stock mag):


Tippmann 5.56 mags:


The Scenario Arms 5.56 mag:


Killjoy Industries bullet mags:


Barrels

All A5/X7 thread barrels will fit the X7P.

In regards to the X7 Flatline™ Barrel, there is a small miss-alignment problem that is causing ball breakages in the barrel. Tippmann has however, solved this issue:

Quote:
Originally Posted by TippmannEmployee1


New X7 Phenom Flatline Barrel Adapter

With the design differences between the original X7C and the X7 Phenom, specifically the difference between the new FlexValve in the Phenom compared to the traditional in-line bolt system used in the original X7C, we needed to develop a modified Flatline Barrel for the X7 Phenom user. This modified design includes a new adapter that replaces the existing adapter when used with the X7 Phenom. The adapter is the only component that changesthe barrel and shroud are compatible with both markers. This easy-to-install adapter (the green part in the picture above) was reduced slightly at the entry point because the X7 Phenom front bolt stroke is shorter than the original X7C. We are currently manufacturing these adapters with a planned availability date for the end of June (2010).

In late June we will include this second adapter with all X7 Flatlines, and offer this adapter free of charge to any consumer who purchased an X7 Phenom and has the current X7 Flatline. Any player may get this adapter by simply calling our Tippmann customer service team or by emailing us their X7 Phenom serial number, and we will send this adapter at no charge. More information will be available on our web site shortly. Again, our number one goal was to allow as many upgrades from the original X7 to fit the new X7 Phenom, but we hope this solution will be an easy change for our new X7 Phenom user to implement.


Internals

Two after-market bolts have been release thus far; the New Designz "Spit Fire" Bolt, NDZ Pro Series bolt, TechT MRT bolt and the TechT Bad Karma Edition MRT bolt.




As far as Operators who have the New Designz bolt go, it is a mixed review. Overall, with all the problems aside, it does seem that there is a performance gain with the new bolt. For more info, read here: New Designs Phenom Bolt





MRT discussion.
Lord_Odins MRT test.
phazedreality818's Phenom bolt review

Cyclone

Only the Cyclone system on the X7C and X7P is compatible. Nothing else about the two marker internally, is the same. Well, operation wise, that is. The barrel adapter and ball latch remains the same.

In regards to the Cyclone, it is argued that replacing the plastic parts (cyclone ratchet and piston) is well worth the money. These pars, especially the ratchet, crack sooner or later, and then leads to the cyclone not cycling, and loading balls into the breach of the marker. It is frustrating to have this problem in the middle of a game.

As for the softer paddles, it is a subject well debated. Some argue (myself being one) that the new stock paddles in the X7P is far ahead in both “softness” and shape than any other after market soft paddles out there, others disagree and recommend the change of paddles regardless.
If you do want to change your paddles to softer ones, there is a second option. Boiling them.

waveprinter posted this: squishy alternative free!
HOWEVER, after testing however, I found that the paddles returned to their pre-boiled stiffness once properly cooled down. Paddle stew But, if it works for you...

Need more info on Cyclone systems: http://www.x7og.net/blowback-cyclone...-system-s.html

Differences in the X7C and X7P E-Grips



E-Grip (Machanical Phenom only)

This upgrades the Mechanical Phenom to the standard Electro Phenom.

Electronic Upgrade Kit
• Magnetically activated hall-effect trigger: Lasts 7 times longer than physical switches
• Internal gasline; no tools required for disconnections
• Three position external selector switch allows you to change modes on the fly
• Modes: semi-auto (mechanical), auto-response, safety full auto, safety 3-shot burst, turbo



After Market Boards

There are none available yet.

This means, for the time being, all X7P’s are stuck at factory cap’s, which means they are capped at 15bps on full auto, and all firing modes apart from Semi-Auto and Auto-Response, has the 3 ball safe feature installs.

And that means, you must pull the trigger 3 times in less than 1 second to activate the selected mode.

What is the reason for the “safe” mode?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanuck
That's so that when little Johnny with his decked out E-gripped X7 pulls the trigger in the safe zone with no barrel sock on....... he only fires one shot and not a rope of 20 balls. This is not the topic of this thread, so can we get back on topic? Thanks in advance for your cooperation.
Thank you Kanuck.

After Market Software

mpx_32 developed a lash mod for the Phenom, allowing users to "flash" their current stock boards with their new software.

The upgrade consist of:
Firmware upgrade, use your OEM Phenom egrip board, simply load new firmware in it

How to change:
Simply enter programming mode for the egrip and make the desired change
To remain easy to use the programming of the grip would remain exactly the same as OEM
The only difference is that one more menu would be added for the features.

Once the firmware upgrade is done the user can enable or disable the “3 shot safety” at will
“3 shot safety” enable = user must press the trigger 3 times before he can hold it in and keep the marker shooting in full automatic mode.
“3 shot safety” disable = on the first press and hold of the trigger the marker shoots in full automatic mode (continues to shoot for as long as you hold the trigger in)

PROS:
  • No need to buy a new electronic board
  • No special skills required, no soldering, no hardware modification
  • WAY cheaper than other alternative (buy a new board)
  • Enable or disable the “3 shot safety” feature at will
  • UNCAP the MAX ROF (rate of fire) (1 to 30) current max for the stock egrip is 15.
CON:
  • No more factory warranty on the OEM egrip.
Read all the details on this mod here.

Electric tape mod

This mod, suggested by Kanuck for the X7C, seems not to be necessary for the X7P. This was verified by SilentAssassn87 and H2O after the question was posed by Kanuck on the matter: Egrip Tape Mod for the Phenom

Regulators/stabilizers

The Phenom has an internal regulator, and installing a second one will likely result in the Phenom starving. This will not harm the marker itself, but you are not helping it either, and the cyclone not loading balls is common in a case like this.
If you are using CO2, and would like to invest in some form of additional insurance to get gas and not liquid into the marker, consider an expansion chamber rather than a regulator, and even a remote coil.

The correct positioning of your CO2 tank, will also go a long way to ensure GAS gets to the marker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAGpie
If you use CO2, it matters how your bottle is held in the vest. If you have a normal bottle, then you want it standing up (vertical) to minimize liquid carry over. If you have an anti-siphon tube installed in your bottle, you want the bottle lying down (horizontal) to achieve this.
For example, if you have, say a normal bottle, and place it in a horizontal pouch, you will be "forcing" the liquid down your remote line, as opposed to "sucking" off the gas from the top of the bottle.


Some more modding

Killjoy Industries triggers

Double:



Single:



Bicle Tube/Tape mod

One of the weakens the Phenom has, is the tendency of its battery door to come off... and well, get lost. The latch mechanism is not ideal. However, there are two "poor mans" mods out there for this problem, and a couple of aftermarket grips options.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGAS
So I have my X7 E-grip back and after hearing about all the bettery door troubles I made my own cover. I cut a length of bicycle inertube from an old tube from my kids bike. It's a 12" tire. I then trimmed it so it fits like a Hogue cover and it works perfect. My buddy has a Hogue cover but it doesn't come off easily for a batery change and he can't get at the switch. He saw mine and is making his own.

Electric tape, and other like items can also be used.

And of course, the Rufus Dawg grips are examples of aftermarket grips you can get. The switch pad is quite cool.


Battery door mod


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip-man
This is my take on a battery door mod.

Two small holes to tie canvas thread, doubled up. small hole drilled inside grip. canvas thread tied to grip & Battery door. Voila!





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Old 07-12-2010, 08:25 AM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

Trouble shooting/ Questions and Answers

Rough bolt

Thanks to Calculon for first spotting this problem:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calculon
I finally got my Phenom today. Naturally, the first thing I did was to look 'under the hood' to familiarize myself with the design. So far I'm rather impressed. It seems the quality went up a notch from the X-7. I really like the fact that you don't really need to split the body anymore to do maintenance, and that once the grip frame and the valve assembly are removed, you can basically wash the rest with a hose (!)

However, I noticed something really odd when I felt the tip of the bolt with my finger: the edges of the 3 vents seemed really rough. So I removed the bolt and when I tried to wipe the surface of the bolt head, the tissue I was using was ripped and left white residue in the vents because then edges were so corrugated. I proceeded to sand that down using very fine grit sandpaper (400) and now the bolt feels very smooth to the touch. I shudder to think what would have happened if I had shot paint without adjusting the bolt first.

Xridgelinerx posted a fix here, and Smoothing the Phenom bolt, and it has been discussed throuroughly in the original thread by Calculon: Phenom bolt... rough edges?

As xridgelinerx reminded me, the reason you would want to smooth out the bolt, is to prevent ball breakages when the bolt come forward to fire the ball.

Oiling/lubing the Phenom

The X7P uses grease, and in only a rare few areas. Pages 18 and 20 shows where grease must be applied, at a frequency of roughly every 10,000 shots
Oil can be applied to the cyclone piston, and grease to the cyclone ratchet.

See cut-outs bellow, marged G.





Additionally, you can solve some minor air leaks by the application of grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xridgelinerx
I had a very minor leak that was stopped by greasing the 2 o-rings (#16 on Flex Valve diagram) on the trigger pin (#19). I think others have had a problem with the trigger pin plug (#18) being loose from the factory. I describe this as minor, because you had to hold the grip up to your ear to hear the hisssssssssssssssss.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddy
In the dwg. for the valve , Item #18,19 is the trigger pin plug and the trigger pin. if the plug backs out it will cause a few things. It will not fire in electro mode and will stop firing in manual mode if the plug backs out enuf.
As the pin does not fit in the plug it will also cause a small air leak, it sounds like its coming from the grip , As you press on the grip( pushing it forward and backwards or side to side) and or pull the trigger slightly.
You have to remove the pin and tighten up the plug, grease the pin and it should stop the leak.

And another contribution from Mr. X:

Quote:
Originally Posted by xridgelinerx
I think any silicone based or synthetic grease is ok in the Phenom.

The Tippmann Techs completely stripped reassembled mine when I was having some "out of the box" leaks & ball breakage. These guys were working out of a service tent at the West Point, NY Combat Classic. They had a huge tube of Dow Corning 33 for use on Phenoms so that is what I have been using with great results. I figure Tippmann knows whats best for a Tippmann marker!


Cyclone chopping? Maybe you put Part 4 - O-Ring on page 24 in, on the wrong place?

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith
Alright, i took my phenom apart too and it started breaking every ball. Here is what i screwed up on:
The big block o-ring that is not in anyway connected to the flexvalve was put in the wrong place. The caused the bolt to slightly stick out, which caused the balls to go only half way in, which caused every ball to be crushed by the bolt.

take off your cyclone, and look inside the hole, if you see the bolt sticking out slightly, then you put that oring in the wrong place.


Starving Phenom problem:

-Phenom fires well in Semi, but seems to run out of gas on full auto after only a few shots, or
-Cyclone double loads or does not feed.

This basically means, it is not getting enough air. So, either the regulator on your HP air tank is too low, or not recycling vast enough or the remote is causing your problems.

To test, screw your tank directly to your markers' ASA, and test fire. If it shoots without trouble, it is the remote. If it’s still gives trouble, try another HP tank. If another tank solves the trouble, the problem is at your tank.

The problem is often experienced with a remote coil, and specifically, with the ASA adapter. They often screw in too deep into the ASA, and either fully or partially blocks the feeding hole.

The adapters (piece with the nipple that screws into the ASA at the end of the line) are very often machined slightly too long. They then screw in too deep into the ASA, and block the air supply hole that runs to the marker.



Here are some pics provided by gurias81


Adaptador ASA by Gustavo Urias, on Flickr

It is clear to see how big the differences are in just there two adaptors. Note how much "deeper" the right one will screw in, certainly blocking the flow of gas into the asa.

To test, you can try and screw the adapter into the marker, and then give it a turn back. Connect it and see if this solves the problem. If it does not leak, perhaps use a larger O-ring to prevent you from screwing the adapter in too deep, or cut a gasket to fit into the ASA, not blocking the air-hole, but ensuring the remote line adapter cannot screw in too deep.

You can also drill the hole bigger, if you want a more permanent solution.
Sometimes though, you just get a doggy remote.

This is all assuming there is enough air in your tank. Above say 1200 psi should be quite enough for testing.

Gas is leaking from my Phenom's grip?

It seems that the design of the gas-line from the ASA to the regulator of the X7P, is flawed. A fair amount of them have “sprung leaks” on the welded/soldered joints, especially closer to the ASA. If your Phenom starts leaking in the grip, this is the likely cause. Contact Tippmann for advice or...
Revealed: Reason Grip leaks at the bottom!!!!
...fix it yourself. Thanks to this DIY guide by 12ksawaya.

When switching to auto-fire, the solenoid clicks, but does not fire.
Or seems to fire only every second shot.
Or, fires once, then just clicks after that.
What could be wrong?

First question is: Have you changed any settings? If so, Reset the board. If not, reset anyhow! May just need to be rebooted

As WALLEYE_BONICA spotted:

Quote:
Originally Posted by WALLEYE_BOHICA
Problem solved...when in doubt refer to manual, I did a factory reset. Placed selector in FA mode and depressed the setting button for ten seconds.

The factory reset very often solves a lot of electronic issues. If the problem persists, I have some bad news for you. Your board is fried. A very small portion of Phenom’s shipped with defective boards. If you have one, you’re just unlucky. Contact Tippmann for advice. They will more than likely replace your board free of charge.

Phenom leaking at the vilocity adjuster or endcap.

Thanks to DarQik for the remind on this one.
Solution:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geist
After trying my new Phenom out at Skirmish PA this weekend it pretty much immediately developed a leak at the rear of the gun, near the velocity adjuster (23). With the stock ( or end cap ) removed I could feel air leak from the center hole of the adjuster. I had to switch back to my A5 for the day much to my disappointment. First I thought that the O-rings may have shrunk from the cold weather ( around 15F that day ), so I brought it home, warmed it up and still no luck after airing it up again. Next I removed the flex valve, checked for debris, and soaked the 2 o-rings on the post of the lower receiver assembly (10) in oil . Still no luck so I removed the velocity adjuster (23) and checked for any problems there. I cleaned and reassembled and still had a leak. After repeating this a few times I noticed that there is a allen key hole on the back of the Regulator Piston Assembly (21) and it was loose. I tightened it back up pretty snug and now my leak is gone!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImHUGEnJapan
My issue was being caused by the regulator body being extremely tight. After studying the internals I noticed that the regulator body (20) pushes down on the regulator seat (15). The regulator pin (13) has to form a proper seal with the regulator pin seal (14) or it will leak air.

Use an adjustable wrench and break the regulator body loose. Then re-tighten it, but not as tight from the factory. Reassemble the marker and test fire it. My marker hissed at first, but I kept firing and seems that the regulator pin seated properly and now it doesn't leak air.


WARNING
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmerzen
It should to be noted that this is a factory set over-pressure release. Everyone should not just go tightening these up unless it is actually coming loose. The proper way to reinstall is clean the threads, use locktite, install snug and then loosen one turn out.

I noticed all the phenom's I've been into this part is never bottomed out inside the regulator piston assembly. I figured the factory set it to a certain relief pressure, so called Tippmann and asked. The info I provided is thanks to the technician Scott.


First Shot Drop Off (FSDO)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buyu Prior
This is my first e-marker, so I start to read a lot of this stuff and Im finding that FSDO its mentioned a lot, does the phenom suffer from this problem?


This is not a known problem for the X7 Phenom.

Ball Breaks

On behalf of Tuflehundon:
Found what was causing my paint breaks on my Phenom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuflehundon
I have had my Phenom for a little over a year now. Had things working beautifully for a while, but then started getting barrel breaks. Tried different paint, barrels, ball detents, new paddles, sanding down the meat hook and chamber, new bolts, swapped barrel adapters, etc, etc, etc. It had started getting worse in the past month or so, and I was at a point were I was just about ready to sell my Phenom and was even considering a space gun. Those that know me will know how big of a deal that is.

Finally I decided to check everything one last time before I did anything drastic. I took everything apart, and was putting the internals into one of the receiver halves so I could see if maybe something was binding up. I noticed when I put everything in, my bolt spring looked a little odd so I took it out to check it.



At first I couldn't see anything, but when I compressed the spring, this is what I saw:



I called up a buddy that also has a phenom, and asked to borrow his so I could swap out the parts and test fire. Once I swapped out my spring with his, my chopping problems went away.

The best I could tell, it looked like the broken spring was putting uneven pressure on the bolt, which caused it to not go straight forward, and it would pin the paint up against the side of the feed port, which was breaking the paint. The break in the spring was really hard to see until I compressed it. I the first pic above, I took the pic of the area the was broken.

I couldn't tell you how many cases of paint I have put through her, but I play every other weekend at least and have gone to 6 scenario games this year.


Opening the Flex Valve Assembly
How to: Opening up the Flex Valve Assembly

Some more vids on the Phenom:

X7 Phenom FlexValve Maintenance


X7 Phenom FlexValve Removal


X7 Phenom Troubleshooting Trigger Pin Issues


X7 Phenom FlexValve Technology


And this one posted by Enhander:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enhander
Watch this and see if it helps. We did this video the first day we had the Phenom




Thank you to everyone who has contributed in this post, and in the posts following!
Let me know what I have missed. Will update as new things come along.

Thank you to canyoncliffs for the BPS correction!
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

From the X7 Upgrade Grocery List. Additional mods that are applicable, and will work on the Phenom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gork

Deburr the inside of your cyclone, chamber, and hopper.
explanation: using a brillo pad and go over the inside of your hopper, the inside of your cyclone (take the paddles off so you can really get in there), and the inside of your chamber. You are looking to smooth off any rough edges that might harm your paint and cause a break. The feeder arm (that little metal finger that sticks out from the right receiver into the cyclone) is another spot that could use some smoothing with a brillo pad. Lastly go over the inside of the chamber where the cyclone feeds paint into the receiver, and smooth out any rough spots. You're removing any edges, burrs, rough spots, etc that might nick or break your paint.
benefit: possible improvements in reducing paint breaking.
cost: free

Cut your ball detent (or ball latch) in half.
explanation: the cyclone feeds paintballs into the chamber. The ball detent holds the paint in position until you fire your x7. When you fire your x7, the front bolt is pushed forward by the drive spring, pushes into the paintball, pushes it past the ball detent. When the front bolt is nearly all the way forward, the rear bolt hits the valve pin, and the high pressure gas exits the valve and goes through the power tube, through the front bolt and shoots the paintball. the act of pushing the paintball past the ball detent can break some paint. The detent is a cheap part (a buck), and it made of a rubber similar in hardness to a pencil eraser. You can make the detent have less resistance by making the detent thinner. Cutting the back half of the detent off, makes the rubber more flexible and puts less pressure on your paint, and is likely to reduce the amount of paint that breaks in your chamber/barrel.
benefit: reduce paint breaking in chamber/barrel if your x7 is breaking paint there.

cost: free. use your stock ball detent. Buy a spare for a buck.
A thread containing a bunch of pictures of how to cut your detent is here:
http://www.x7og.net/x7-mods-upgrades...html#post61203

Felting your hopper and guppies
This one doesn't help with your marker's performance, but it may help you during your game. And it isn't neccessarily an intuitive thing, so I'm listing it here for the newbies.

Hoppers and guppies are made out of hard plastic. When you're running during a game, the paint inside your hopper and guppies can sound like a big pile of gravel in a five gallon bucket, being rolled down hill. A simple and inexpensive solution that will reduce the noise produced by your hopper and guppies is to line them with felt. Folks have tried different materials, but felt seems to produce a noticable decrease in sound, while still being cheap and universally available. The best glue seems to be the spray-on glue. Be prepared to make a mess until you get the hang of it. Once you get the hang of it, you'll probably still make a mess, so do it somewhere
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

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Old 07-12-2010, 08:27 AM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

Place holder 5.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:16 PM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

MAGpie's looking for more rep :P Well he's found it...
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:46 PM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

Cleaned up some, and included a few suggestions. Thank you for everyone that poked me. If you can poke me again, I will give credit. Unfortunately, I cleaned out my PM-box, and yeah, forgot to de-select some of the messages. Sorry about that.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:01 AM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

I read this thread many times but I can't find anywhere how to open up and expose the Valve Body Power Tube. The o-ring that is in there has been totally destroyed. I can't remove the Spiral Retaining Ring (5) so that I can remove my Power Tube. It is that one o ring in there that needs to be changed and I just cannot open it and noone shows how to do it...I need help!!!!
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:57 PM
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Re: Ultimate Guide to the X7 - Phenom

Hi Cap, you sure neither these vids helped?



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